Doodee's Thailand

Saturday, July 29, 2006

What’s in a Name?

One of the very difficult things about learning a new, very foreign language is becoming familiar with names. During my early days of learning the Thai language I remember watching a Thai TV soap opera, and having to ask my Thai friend, “Why do they keep talking about prawns?”

“They’re not,” she said, and then she explained: “They’re talking to that young girl, and her name is Goong”. Goong was the young girl’s name. Goong is also the Thai word for prawn or shrimp. Confusing, uh?

Since those early days I’ve learned a lot about Thai names. I’ve come to understand that Thai names reveal a lot about the way that Thai people see themselves, and reveal also the creative, fun, yet respectful way that Thais like to interact with each other and the rest of the world. So, although I’m not the greatest authority on Thai culture that you’re ever likely to encounter, I’d nonetheless like to tell you a little bit about what I’ve learned about Thai names.

How Many Names Do Thai People Have?
Thai people generally have two formal names, a forename and a surname, and usually one but sometimes more than one nickname.

Forenames
A Thai person’s forename is always used in formal settings, often preceded by the word “Khoon”. A good example of this can be found by observing the way in which ordinary Thai people refer to their Prime Minister, Thaksin Shinawatra, in everyday conversation. Thai people usually refer to him as Khoon Thaksin.
When they are being more proper and formal they call him Nah Yok Thaksin Shinawatra (“Nah Yok” is Thai for Prime Minister).
Newsreaders always refer to the Prime Minister as Nah Yok Thaksin Shinawatra.

Surnames
Thai people appear to use their surnames only rarely, mostly only for completing official documents and in the business environment. The Thai for surname is “nam sakoon”.

And now the fun part: Nicknames
All Thai people have a nickname. Thai nicknames are usually single syllable words and very often have a meaning in Thai. Regardless of what that meaning may be a nickname is never considered to be uncouth or offensive.

Thais are given their nicknames at birth. I’ve heard it said that babies are given their nicknames according to the whims and dreams of their parents, and also according to whatever image the baby brings into the parents’ minds soon after being born. I don’t know whether that’s exactly true or not, but it sounds reasonable enough to me.

A Thai person’s nickname is the name that he or she is most commonly known by within the family, and within the workplace. However, subordinates in the workplace will only call a superior by his or her nickname if invited to do so.

I’ve produced a list of Thai nicknames and their derivations and meanings at the end of this article. I hope that you enjoy looking through it.

Incidentally, the Thai expression for nickname is “cheu-len”. The vowel sound denoted by “eu” of “cheu-len” has no equivalent in English. It’s much closer to the vowel sound of the French word “tu” which translates in to English as “you”.

We don’t have nicknames. What will Thais call us?
Foreigners in Thailand are generally politely referred to and called by their first name preceded by Khoon ie Khoon David, Khoon Peter, Khoon Susan. This form of address is very usual, and familiar as it can sound, it is actually very respectful.

Some Thais, especially those engaged in the worlds of business and medicine, are aware of western tradition and therefore very politely call us foreigners by our surname preceded by Mr or Mrs.

Thai Names and Cultural Stuff
A married woman always assumes her husband’s surname.
A divorced woman must relinquish her ex-husband’s surname.

Thai Nickname List
The following is a list of some of the more common Thai nicknames and their meaning in English. I kid you not. Here goes:-

Appern: Thai pronunciation of the English word "Apple"
Ay: First letter of the western alphabet – name given to the first born of the family
Bee: Second letter of the western alphabet – name given to the second born of the family
Bo: From the English word “bow” – a bow for the hair
Boo: Crab
Boo-wa: Lotus
Bor: Contraction of “malang bor”, means Dragon Fly in Thai
Daow: Star in the sky
Daa: Eye
Dang: Red
Dang-mo: Melon
Duan: Moon
Dumm: Black
Fah: Sky
Fon: Rain
Gai: Pronounced “Guy,” translates as chicken
Ged: The “G” in this word is pronounced as in “Get”. Ged translates as raisin
Gip: The “p” in this word is barely audible. Gip translates as hair clip
Goong: Prawn or shrimp
Gop: Frog
Gratair: A small species of rabbit
Humm: Testicles. Believe me, I wouldn’t joke about this! This name is more popularly used in Isaan
Jing-len: Skink - more specifically, a Many Lined Sun Skink
June: I’m not too certain of this translation, but I think that it means “Haziness,” - often used when referring to interference or a low signal picture on a TV
Kee-oh: Green
La: An Isaan word meaning last born child – but how did they know that when they named her?
Lec: Small
Lumyai: Longan, a popular kind of fruit
Maow: Cat
May: Abbreviation of “rot-maey” which means bus
Mee: Bear (the animal)
Mem: Variation derived from the English word “Ma’am”. Roughly translates as respectable, pretty lady
Mee-oh: Alternative pronunciation of “Maow,” meaning cat.
Meurd: Dark
Monn: Isaan word for ball ie football, basketball, beach ball etc
Moo: Pig. Not terribly flattering I would have thought
Mook: Contraction of “hoiy khaiy mook” which means pearl
Mud: Small black dog flea, or a punch. I wonder if anyone other than me ever says, “Her name’s Mud”?
Nah: Rice field
Nam: Water
Ngah: Tusk, elephant’s tusk, ivory
Nee: Contraction of “wing-nee,” means to run away, to flee
Neung: The number “1”
Nid: Tiny, titch
Nid-noy: A little bit, a small amount
Nim: Soft
Nok: Bird, and yes, this name is usually given to girls
Noot: Younger
Noy: Tiny, titch
Nuan: White face powder
Oh: Derived from the western alphabet character “O”
Omm: Contraction of “Op omm ar-ree,” which means very kind and sweet natured, generous of spirit
Ong: Buddha image, monk, also is a collective term for Buddha images and monks
Onn: Contraction of “onn waan,” which means polite, respectable, well behaved, nicely spoken
Oo-un: Fat (the adjective, not the noun)
Ot: Tadpole
Oy: Sugar cane
Pah: To take someone somewhere
Pair: Raft
Prair: Silk
Pehd: Duck
Pee: Derived from the western alphabet character “P”
Pen: The night of a full moon
Perng: Bee
Pie: Contraction of “pai maiy” which means bamboo
Pim: To type, to print, also the noun “print”
Pink: From the English word “pink”
Pla: Fish
Ponn: Pronunciation falls halfway between “ponn” and “porn”, but does not sound similar to pawn. Means merit or blessings
Ree-um: The name of a traditional drama
Roong: Contraction of "roong gin nam" which means rainbow
Sac: Power, status, the noun “influence”
Shumpoo: Rose apple
Sie: Clear, transparent (when talking of weather, water, etc) - implies purity
Som: Orange, the colour and the fruit
Tair: Contraction of Gratair which means a small breed of rabbit
Tarr: Name of a plant
Tee: Contraction of the Isaan word “Too-wee” which means buffalo
Took: Contraction of the Thai word “took-ah-tah” which means a child’s doll or cuddly toy
Too-wee: Isaan word for Buffalo
Waan: Sweet
Waan-jie: Sweetheart
Wee: Brush, comb
Yar: Medicine
Yaart: Rainwater
Yoo: Whirlwind
Yoiy: Dangling threads of foliage seen on some trees

I’ve also heard the following nicknames, but I don’t think that they’re in common use:-
E.T. : Given to someone who likes to use the phone, has large eyes, and a strange voice? I don’t know
Beckham, Owen, & Captain: I wonder if Mum and Dad are football fans?

And Finally
Many years ago I was showing a friend a group photo that I’d taken in Thailand. I explained, “This is Egg, he’s a student. This is Onn, Egg’s younger brother. And this is….,” at which point my friend interrupted me.

“Let me Guess,” he said. “Toast?”
Think about it.


I hope that you’ve enjoyed today’s entry on this blog.
The next entry will be published soon.
Take care. Have a good day.

Email Doodee I'm always pleased to hear from you

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Wednesday, July 26, 2006

There May Be Storm Clouds Ahead

I’ve got a few more photos for you today. These were taken during our recent visit to River City. They were taken from the River City Boat Terminal. I hope that you like them.

The first photo today shows the Baan Chao Praya Hotel, Bangkok. As you can see, it’s a rather splendid building. It dominates the view of the west bank of the Chao Phraya River when looking upstream from River City.
Western readers might be interested to know that “Baan” is the Thai word for house, home, or a person’s place of origin.

But the reason that I’m showing this picture to you today is in order for you to see just how quickly the weather can change in Bangkok. Just look at the picture. You can click on the picture to enlarge it. In the near distance you can see bright sky, but directly overhead storm clouds are gathering. Shortly after taking this photo we were subjected to a torrential downpour which lasted thirty or so minutes, and then the bright sky reappeared. The weather seems to change in an instant in Thailand. It’s almost as if someone’s turning a tap on and off.
American readers might be interested to know that “tap” is the English word for faucet.

The second photo today also shows the contrasting cloud colours over the river.


Storms are very localised in Thailand. It’s not unusual to be walking along a road in the sunshine and see rain falling on to the dark, overcast road only a few hundred metres ahead of you. The storm always seems to be coming towards you. When you experience this phenomenon you can be fairly certain that you will be soaked within the next few moments.

An umbrella is an essential item of equipment in Thailand at this time of year. Hence the old oriental expression, “If you don’t take your brolly, you’re going to be solly”.

I’ve provided the final picture on today’s entry for those of you with nautical interest (as opposed to naughty interests). This picture shows the courtesy boat provided for patrons of the Baan Chao Praya Hotel (featured above). It’s a rather charming old tub, don’t you think?


I hope that you’ve enjoyed today’s entry on this blog.
The next update to this blog will be published soon.
Take care. Have a good day.

Email Doodee I'm always pleased to hear from you

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Saturday, July 22, 2006

He’s Just Too Neighbourly

I love where I live in Bangkok. I have super neighbours, a lovely landlady, and a delightful little home.

Recently a new neighbour moved in to a flat near to my house on the property. He uses the same front gate to access the property that I and my landlady use to access our homes. I guess that he must have seen how busy I am and so, quite unbeknown to me, he took it upon himself to relieve me of the burden of some of my incoming mail. His kindness only became apparent a couple of weeks ago when I set enquiries in motion to locate a registered delivery package that I was expecting from the UK.

It quickly became evident that my new neighbour, in his enthusiasm to be neighbourly, had signed for my registered delivery package several weeks earlier. And as if that wasn’t enough kindness to show a relative stranger such as myself, he’d then continued by thoroughly examining all the contents of the package on my behalf. I imagine that having examined the contents he came to the conclusion that there was nothing in there of any importance and therefore didn’t want me to be troubled by such trivia, so he didn’t pass it on to me.

I am very embarrassed by my new neighbour’s kindness. I really don’t want him to have this extra duty in his life. So, when I retrieved my registered delivery package from him a couple of weeks ago I politely explained to him, but in fairly plain, simple, straightforward and forthright language, that I would prefer that in future he does not intercept and examine my mail for me. But I do worry that this form of kindness is an integral part of his nature, and that he will not be able to resist the temptation to help me with my mail in the future. I also worry that he might choose to help me better utilize the space in my home by arranging alternative storage for other possessions of mine, probably without consulting me first, and very possibly contrary to my own, preferred wishes.

So we’re moving home. It seems to me to be the only way that I can be sure that I will permanently relieve my new neighbour of his new found chore.

House Hunting
To date we haven’t found our dream house. We’re looking for a modest abode, preferably with wrought iron gates, on a plot spacious enough to allow our peacocks to strut around unimpeded. Such properties are few and far between in Bangkok. So in the short term we’ll be moving in to an apartment that I currently rent in central Bangkok. Our move should take place very soon.

Updates to This Blog
I will continue to update this blog regularly, even during the time when we’re moving, so please do keep popping back.

I hope that you’ve enjoyed today’s entry on this blog.
The next entry on this blog will be made soon.
Take care. Have a good day.

Email Doodee I'm always pleased to hear from you

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Thursday, July 20, 2006

Messing about by the River

Whenever I visit River City, there’s nothing that I like to do more than stand on the promenade at the edge of the Chao Phraya River and watch the world go by. This river is a busy place. Boats are constantly dashing to and fro. The good people of Bangkok can be seen rushing on and off the ferries, going about their daily business. And hordes of tourists amble aimlessly around. It’s fascinating to watch.

I took the camera with me during my recent visit to River City. I’ve bashed off a few snaps for you. They show some of the river transport that can be seen in Bangkok. I hope that you enjoy them.

But first I’d like to impart a little local information to you. Please read on.

Chao Phraya? What’s that?
The Chao Phraya River flows through the centre of Bangkok. As well as being the name of Thailand’s most important river, Chao Phraya is also a Thai title which roughly translates as General or Ruler. The Chao Phraya River is often referred to as “The River of Kings”.

Thai Language Stuff
The Thai word for river is “mae-nam”. “Mae” is the Thai word for mother, and “nam” is the Thai word for water. So “mae-nam” is literally mother-water. I suppose when Thai speakers refer to “mae-nam”, it’s a bit like us English speakers referring to Mother Earth, only wetter.

Today’s Photos
The first picture on today’s blog was taken looking down the Chao Phraya River from the River Express boat jetty alongside and at the rear of the Royal Orchid Sheraton Hotel. The boat thundering along in the foreground is one of a fleet of boats known as River Expresses. Please note that the helmsman sits in a small cockpit in the bow of the vessel. The guy standing at the aft starboard (that’s “back right” to you landlubbers) edge of the boat is the rope boy, whistle man, and guard. When the boat reaches the quayside he signals using a referee’s whistle for the helmsman to manoeuvre the stern towards the landing stage. He then leaps from the boat and secures a rope over the nearest mooring post. The passengers are hurried on and off the vessel, the rope’s retrieved from the mooring post, the engine revs, the boat starts to depart, the rope boy leaps aboard and they’re off again. This is all done at lightning fast speed. The rope boys are real acrobats. They’re fascinating to watch.

The large vessel to the right of and slightly behind the River Express is The Chao Phraya Princess. Just look at how she dwarfs the traditional long-tailed boat at the far right of the picture. You can click on the picture to enlarge it.

The second picture shows a River Express boat approaching the landing stage. Please note the ferry half way across the river. This is a busy river. Please note also the crowd of passengers ready to disembark at the aft of the River Express boat. You have to be ready. These boats don’t stop for a split second longer than is absolutely necessary. The River Express boats are fast, and their fares are cheap. They run from Ratburana to Nonthaburi. They’re always busy. They’re fun to ride on.

The third picture shows the Chao Phraya Express. It’s similar to the River Express boats, but a bit more posh. Once again you can see the helmsman’s cockpit perched high at the bow of the vessel.

The fourth picture shows the traditional long-tailed boat. These are marvellous fun to ride on. They’re fast, and very manoeuvrable. The drivers are skilled boatmen, and can turn these babies around on a sixpence. Long Tailed Boats can be hired for a ninety minute ride from the landing stage adjacent to the Royal Orchid Sheraton Hotel for a reasonable price. Seven hundred baht used to be the going rate. I doubt whether it’s much more expensive now. The price to hire long tailed boats is charged per boat, not per person.

The next boat featured on today’s blog is from the upper end of the market. It’s one of the hotel shuttle boats used to bring well-heeled visitors from their grand hotels by the river to the River City Shopping Centre. The attendant, immaculately attired in traditional Thai dress, stands in somewhat stark contrast to his fellow mariners, the rope boys on the River Expresses.

The next boat is again a tourist transport vessel. Why does the word junk keep flashing through my mind? Oh, it’s a kind of oriental boat isn’t it. Anyway, once again please note that the helmsman is at the front of the vessel.

The next picture shows a more modest hotel shuttle boat. Even so it still has rather inviting looking sofa-style seating at the back. In the background of this picture you can see the cross river ferry taking on passengers.

The next picture shows a ferry leaving the landing stage. Just look at how busy the river is behind it. The writing in red on the cab of this ferry says “Ruam Choc 3”, and is followed by a serial number. “Ruam Choc” can be translated as “with luck” (it literally means “together luck” or “joined luck”). Surely they don’t need it? Or perhaps it’s just the name of the fleet? I don’t know.

The next picture shows a ferry leaving, another ferry arriving, a hotel shuttle heading towards the quayside, and in the distance a long-tailed boat. This river is a hectic place.

And much the same again, but this time with an express boat dashing between all of them.


And finally the Chao Phraya Princess. She looks most opulent above decks, and I expect that she’s fine for an excursion. But the old girl does look like she could do with a rub down and a lick of paint here and there. She’s a bit like me really.

A Word of Caution: If you plan to go on a boat ride in Bangkok or anywhere in Thailand please do satisfy yourself that the vessel is safe and its crew are competent before boarding. Safety standards in Thailand are not the same as those that we take for granted in the West. I would also advise that you read the British Foreign and Commonwealth Office advice regarding boat safety which can be accessed by clicking on the British Embassy Advice link in the right hand sidebar of this page.

I hope that you’ve enjoyed today’s entry on this blog.
The next entry on this blog will be made in two days time.
Take care. Have a good day.

Email Doodee I'm always pleased to hear from you

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Tuesday, July 18, 2006

River City

We alighted from the taxi following our invigorating taxi ride and I immediately felt a sense of achievement. We'd made it. We were here. River City.

More than just a Shopping Complex
River City is an oasis of tranquillity in the hustle and bustle that is Bangkok. It’s basically a shopping complex. But this is no ordinary shopping mall. You won’t find a Tesco Lotus or a McDonald’s in here. But you will find a magnificent array of art, craft and antique shops, and also some excellent restaurants.

River City is situated next to the Chao Phraya River (no surprises there) on Captain Bush Lane, Soi 30, Charoen Krung Road. It’s adjacent to the Royal Orchid Sheraton Hotel.

Whenever I step in to River City I am immediately struck by the peace, the calm, and the spaciousness of the complex. The air conditioning is always running at full tilt too. The air tastes fresh, clean, and cool.

The ground floor consists of several shops surrounding a large open hall. The hall is home to a constantly changing succession of exhibitions and collectors’ fairs. The roof of the hall is also the roof of the complex, some four stories above. This gives the main hall a most delightfully unencumbered feel to it.

There are three further floors of shops which include, in addition to the arts and crafts outlets already mentioned, some excellent tailors and outfitters. The material used by these shops is of the very highest quality, as too is their craftsmanship. So, if you’re looking for some dandy threads, this could well be a good place to start. But make sure that you’ve brought your visa card with you!

Prices in River City are by western standards reasonable, but this is not a cheap shopping centre. It’s not a bargain basement, and it doesn’t aspire to be. In fact, River City is so exclusive that there’s even an entrance fee for the toilets.

River City has an excellent web page. You can access it by clicking on this link.

So, what did we buy while we were there?
I bought a cup of coffee for me, and an orange juice for Her@Home. Yes, I know, I spoil her, but she is worth it. We enjoyed these refreshments at the Sala Thai Restaurant, which is situated adjacent to the main shopping building. The service at the Sala Thai is excellent, the seating is very comfortable, and the ambience is delightful. The tariff is very, very reasonable too.

Students of the Thai language might be interested to know that “Sala” means pavilion. So Sala Thai means Thai Pavilion, and that’s just what the Sala Thai is - a pavilion style restaurant. It’s a great place to chill out.

I hope that you found today’s entry on this blog interesting.
The next entry on this blog will be made in two days time, and will include a number of photos.
Take care. Have a good day.

Email Doodee I'm always pleased to hear from you

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Sunday, July 16, 2006

Another Invigorating Taxi Ride

“River City”. “The Royal Orchid Sheraton Hotel”. “Charoen Krung Road”. These are the names I tossed across the breakfast table as we tried to decide as to where to spend the forthcoming day.

“Oh, River City,” she said. “I’ve never been there”.

I seized the moment, and within a jiffy we were in the street outside our home hailing a taxi. A taxi stopped for us.

The Negotiation
“Can you take us to River City?” I enquired humbly. This is a must-do strategy when using taxis in Bangkok. The fact that a taxi stops when you hail it should not be misunderstood as being an indication that the driver will take you where you want to go. He’s only stopped in order to assess whether or not he likes the idea of driving you to your destination, and he will deliver the outcome of his evaluation at a moment of his choosing.

“I don’t know where it is,” he said.

I explained to him that River City is situated next to the Chao Phraya River. As I imparted this information I did feel that maybe he would have already guessed that much. I also told him that I knew where it was (which was almost true), and that if he would agree to take us I could direct him. This was a damage limitation strategy. I was aware that I knew enough to deliver us fairly close to our destination. I gambled that once in the general area of River City we’d be able to ask a passer-by, or maybe we’d see a sign to follow. Or, at the very, very worst, we could alight from this gentleman’s taxi and then flag another passing taxi or tuk-tuk, hopefully driven by someone with rather better local knowledge than this guy. My experience of travelling in Bangkok taxis has taught me the art of compromise i.e. get as close as you can to your destination and then improvise. Grovel if necessary.

I noticed a reluctance in our driver’s attitude, but nonetheless he agreed to take us. We made ourselves comfortable in his vehicle, and off he sped.

Within a few hundred metres he declared that he’d have to use the expressway because of the heavy traffic. He added that if we didn’t agree to him using the expressway then he wouldn’t be able to take us any further. We agreed that he should use the expressway.

The Expressway and Back, and Back Again
After ten minutes or so of lane switching, head shaking, and tut-tutting we reached the expressway entry ramp. I had the thirty baht ready for the toll fee. I could see the look of relief on our driver’s face as he paid the fee, engaged first gear, and accelerated away from the toll booth. It was a joy to behold.

We proceeded to roar up through the gears, and in what seemed to be no time at all we were travelling at humungous speed. We rapidly approached a fork in the carriageway, at which point I perceived a look of confusion in our driver’s eyes. Was he going to take the left fork, or was he going to take the right fork? I had a sneaking suspicion that the right fork was the direction that we should be headed. He took the left fork, and within moments we found ourselves hurtling down the expressway exit ramp, heading towards three lanes of stationary traffic on the road that we had just paid thirty baht to escape from. Our driver stood on the brake pedal with such force that his head remained pressed against the roof of the taxi for at least a hundred and twenty metres. For the second time in sixty seconds I could see the look of relief on our driver’s face as our vehicle screeched to a halt without incident or injury. And I was a little relieved too.

Out of Misfortune Comes Compassion
“Thirty baht for five hundred metres,” he said with some disdain. And do you know, I think that it really bothered him. I don’t know why. It was my money. But for the first time, and sadly not the last, I felt rather sorry for him.

Bangkok taxi drivers are a mixed bunch. Some of them are wise and worldly, and very much in control. But others, like this poor fellow who was driving us, are just kids from the sticks. They’ve had neither the support nor the educational opportunities that I so frivolously squandered so many years ago. They’ve come from humble beginnings. They’ve come to the big city to make their fortune with little by way of qualifications other than a driving licence and an enthusiasm for hard work.

And driving a taxi in Bangkok is hard work. These guys work long hours, battle their way through the most frustrating traffic jams that you could imagine, and have to tolerate elderly, westerner, smart Alecs such as myself, for the kind of daily wage that us decadent Brits wouldn’t get out of bed for. I couldn’t do it. And even if I could, I wouldn’t.

We dragged and crawled our way through the traffic for another two kilometres. I tried to placate our driver with such platitudes as, “We know it wasn’t intentional”, “We know that you’re doing your best”, and the old Thai favourite, “Never mind” (in Thai: “mai pen ‘rai”). He seemed to warm to our philosophical acceptance of the situation. So much so that when we reached the next entrance ramp to the expressway he tried to appease me with the good news that he only required forty baht for the toll fee, but if we had remained on the expressway as originally planned I would’ve had to have paid seventy baht in toll fees.

Today’s photo shows the traffic that we were in, slowly passing below the expressway that we should have been on. I know that it’s not a great photo, but my photographic skills are improving…. You can click on the photo to enlarge it.

I Eat My Words
We re-entered the expressway. The speedometer needle shot up as we found ourselves being thrown back in our seats, and the fare meter was increasing at even greater speed than my bank raises its charges. Several times I gently made such remarks as, “I think that we need to take the left lane here”, or, “Shouldn’t we take the right fork at this intersection?” but my words were ignored. We thundered on, and I found myself becoming a little hot under the collar.

We went down a ramp, up a ramp, took a left, took a right, left at the next set of lights, and then our driver proudly proclaimed, “We’ve reached Charoen Krung Road. Do you want me to turn left or right?”

I was a bit taken aback. “Er, er, right,” I sheepishly stuttered.
I could hardly believe it. He’d succeeded. We’d almost arrived at our destination. I felt that this was a triumph of intuition over intellect, but nonetheless I had to concede, fortunately only to myself, that he’d done his job well despite my increasing belligerence. And now I had some humble pie to eat. “I knew you could do it”, I said. “Thanks for your patience and determination”.

And Luckily
We chugged along the Charoen Krung Road. Our driver enquired of me, “So whereabouts is River City?”

I prayed for a sign. My hotline to the Benign One seems to have been down for a long time now, so I didn’t hold out too much hope that my prayer would be answered. But behold. What was that ahead of us? It was a sign, “River City”, and a huge arrow pointed to the left.

“It’s the next on the left”, I smugly replied.

Everyone was relieved. I gave our driver a foolishly generous tip. He thanked me most profusely.

I hope that you’ve enjoyed today’s entry on this blog
The next entry will be made in two days time
Take care. Have a good day.

Email Doodee I'm always pleased to hear from you

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Friday, July 14, 2006

Readers' Feedback

Thanks to all of you who’ve been taking an interest in this blog. And thanks too to those of you who’ve sent me Emails. I’m delighted to learn that when I despatch my rambling monologues into the ether that there’s a few of you out there interested enough to read them. Thanks.

Readers' Suggestions
Several of you have written to me saying that you’d like to see more of everyday life in Thailand. I’ve taken your suggestions on board. It’s on the agenda already.

I note the interest that many of you are showing in the Thai language snippets that I’ve slipped in to some entries. This is an area of the blog that I plan to develop.

Some of you have said that you would enjoy seeing pictures of Mr Wit, Her@Home, and me on this blog.
Well, Mr Wit is already infamous in every debutante’s dormitory throughout Thailand, and I fear that he would not welcome the publicity. But I’ll ask him for you.
Her@Home is stunningly beautiful, and thus I worry that her likeness might melt your Pentium Processor.
And as for me…. You’re pulling my leg aren’t you?

One person suggested that I show a little of our trips out at night. This is not a Bangkok nightlife blog, but even so it has been known for me to down the odd Heineken or ten. So, in the future I’ll take the camera with me and bash off a few snaps for your amusement. Watch this space.

I’m always pleased to hear from you
If you’d like to Email me with your thoughts, suggestions, and opinions, you can Email me by clicking on the link below.


The next entry on this blog will be made in two days time.
Take care. Have a good day.

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Wednesday, July 12, 2006

I'll Drink To That

Don’t you just love the message emblazoned on all four sides of the Sky Baiyoke Hotel in Bangkok (click on the photo to enlarge it). The message says, “DRINK DON’T DRIVE”. I’ll drink to that.

Perhaps, “Don’t drink and drive” or, “If you drink don’t drive” would have been more appropriate wording.

But this is a serious attempt to dissuade people from drinking and driving. I applaud any initiative that encourages people to become more responsible road users. However, I do wonder why the sign is written in English and not Thai.

The Sky Baiyoke Hotel is Bangkok’s tallest building. It stands 93 stories tall. On the upper floors of the Sky Baiyoke Hotel there are a number of viewing areas, a restaurant, and a small collection of traditional Thai artefacts. When I last visited the Sky Baiyoke Hotel there was a charge of 100 Baht to visit these upper floors. It’s well worth it.

But a word of warning: If you don’t like heights, then do stand near the doors of the lift that ascends from the ground floor to the 78th floor. This lift is a glass-sided lift and it ascends the outside wall of the building, but this is not at first obvious. For the first six floors of its ascent the lift travels through an enclosed shaft. It can be quite a shock for the unprepared, if they are standing near to the back wall of the lift as it emerges from this enclosed shaft, to find themselves 6 floors up with only glass between them and the rapidly receding Bangkok terrain.

Photos of Bangkok
If you’d like me to take some photos of Bangkok for you free of charge and display them on this blog, just Email me and I’ll see what I can do for you.

I hope that you’ve enjoyed today’s entry on this blog.
This blog will be updated again soon.
Take care. Have a good day.

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Sunday, July 09, 2006

Buddhist Lent


Next Tuesday, the eleventh of July, is “Wunn Cow Pansar”, the first day of Buddhist Lent. For students of the Thai language, “Wunn” means day, “Cow” is the verb “to enter”, and “Pansar” means Rainy Season. So “Wunn Cow Pansar” is literally the day of entering the rainy season.

The Buddhist period of Lent lasts for three months, the final day being “Wunn Ork Pansar”, Ork being the Thai word for “to leave”.

During Buddhist Lent the monks adhere to the Buddha’s teachings by remaining at their monasteries and temples, observing their practice, and being faithful to their minimalist, mendicant lifestyle. They don’t usually leave the temples, not even to perform ceremonies during this period. Also during Lent they don’t go on Toodong (often spelt Tudong).

Toodong
This is the mendicant monks’ wandering practice. It’s often referred to in Thai as, “bie dern toodong” (literally “go walk pilgrimage”). During these wandering pilgrimages the monks leave their temples and monasteries, and then amble through towns and villages, usually in pairs, sometimes alone, supported only by alms, and often sleeping under nothing more than a large umbrella-type portable canopy for protection. It’s a testament to the generosity of the Thai people that monks subsisting in this fashion are so well supported by laypeople.

The monks use these toodong pilgrimages to give spiritual guidance to those individuals whom they encounter along the way. They also spend long periods of time in contemplation and meditation throughout their travels.

Toodong is a Thai word, but it is also used when speaking English. There is no equivalent English word.

The Rainy Season
This starts in Thailand at the beginning of June, and continues until the end of October. It doesn’t rain every day, but it does rain a lot. It’s rather like a British summer, but warmer. During the Rainy Season those of us who live in Thailand are also treated to some of the most spectacular thunder storms imaginable.

What Are We Doing During Lent?
Her@Home and myself plan to visit Kalasin. Kalasin is a city and province in Isaan (north east Thailand). We have a friend who hails from Kalasin, and he’s invited us to spend time with him and his family to welcome in the Lent period. We did so last year, and it was great fun.

By the way, and just in case you’re interested, let me inform you that I’m not planning to abstain from anything at all during Lent, except maybe buying rounds of drinks. I’ve been practising this form of abstention for years now, and I think that I can succeed at it.

I’ll Be Back on Wednesday
So now I must go and pack my toothbrush, razor, and English language karaoke VCD (Video Compact Disc) for the trip ahead. I’ll try and take a few photos for you whilst I’m away, and perhaps I’ll make a recording for you of my karaoke performances too.


The next entry on this blog will be made soon.
Take care. Have a good week.

Email Doodee I'm always pleased to hear from you

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Friday, July 07, 2006

Onward and Homeward

Refreshed by our visit to Isaan, we loaded the car and set off on our return journey to Bangkok. The journey from Isaan to Bangkok is fascinating. At first we travelled up and down, through and across, and around and between towering hills, and tight, mean, unforgiving curves, only then to emerge on to the longest stretch of uninterrupted tarmac that anyone from that infamous island just off the European coast could ever imagine. Hardly a bend or a hill of any significance could be seen for miles and miles ahead. This seemingly endless stretch of tarmac was punctuated only by police and army checkpoints, and roadside markets.

Police and Army Checkpoints
These are dotted at very regular intervals along all main, and many not-so-main, roads. The officers manning these outposts show great interest in where travellers have been, and for what reason they’ve been there. I find it very reassuring that national, local, and personal security are taken so seriously.

Errant motorists can expect no mercy at these checkpoints. Fines are levied liberally.

Roadside Markets
These are great fun. It seems that almost every crossroads and T-junction supports a market. The first photo on today’s entry shows one of these roadside markets. You can click on the image to enlarge it.

This market is very typical of its type. It consists of stalls selling fruit, vegetables, cold drinks, fresh cooked food, home made cakes, pot plants, and brooms. There are no clothes stalls.

The fruit sold at markets such as this one is usually fresh, delicious, and cheap.

Brooms
I was surprised to see a stall selling brooms. It seemed so out of place in a market that appeared to cater for travellers’ culinary and botanical requirements. I was even more surprised when we bought four of the aforementioned implements. I didn’t know that we were short of them.

Whenever I’m puzzled about anything, I know that if I ask Her@Home to explain, she will be able to alleviate my confusion. And so I asked her, “Why do they sell brooms here? Are they sold for motorists to use to clean their cars?” The second of these questions although asked seriously, was greeted with hearty, and I felt rather uncalled for, laughter. But perhaps I was being overly sensitive.

Her@Home then explained, “They sell them here because they’re grown locally”. Now I was really confused. Grown locally? But then she continued by informing me that “doc mai kwudd” (“doc” meaning flower or plant – “mai” meaning wood – “kwudd” means broom) is a grass grown locally. “Doc mai kwudd” literally means plant for wooden brooms and is the plant used to make the heads of brooms similar to the one pictured on the right.

Now that I understood why these brooms were on sale at this location, I then felt it was prudent to enquire as to why we had bought four of them. My enquiry was treated with astonishment. “As presents for our friends in Bangkok of course”, was the reply. And subsequently these brooms, with the exception of one of them, have been given to our friends in Bangkok.

It’s strange how people of different cultures value different items as gifts. For me a six pack of Heineken, an extension for my pool cue, or a new microphone for my karaoke machine would all be received and accepted as excellent gifts. But a broom? I don’t think so. In fact anyone who really wished to buy a broom for me as a present would be well advised to remove the handle before giving it to me, for the sake of their own safety and comfort.

I hope that you’ve enjoyed today’s entry on this blog.

The next entry on this blog will be made this Sunday.
Take care. Have a good day.

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Tuesday, July 04, 2006

Skylab, the School Bus

We departed from the monastery and travelled for a few hundred metres back along the narrow, tarmacadammed lane. Then we turned off from the lane and on to a dirt road. Our destination was Khoon Yie’s home.

“Yie” is the Thai word for one’s grandmother on one’s mother’s side of the family, but is also used for sisters of the said grandmother (as in this case), and is often applied to any woman of senior years. Confusing, isn’t it.
“Khoon” is a commonly used Thai word for “you” (there are several others), but when it precedes a name or a title it shows respect from the speaker. In this context it is often erroneously translated as “Mr” or “Mrs”.
Thus in this case “Khoon Yie” is a title which could be translated as “Respected sister of mother’s mother”.

Locating Khoon Yie
After fifteen minutes or so of crawling along a succession of dirt tracks, without enjoying the opportunity of engaging any gear higher than second, we arrived at Khoon Yie’s home, and she was out! In the area surrounding Khoon Yie’s home there are few landline telephones, and mobile phones are frequently out of range of the nearest radio mast, so notifying Khoon Yie of our intended visit had been out of the question. Mind you, even if we’d had a good opportunity to inform Khoon Yie that we were coming to see her, we probably wouldn’t have done so. Thais are not big on prearranging things.

Fortunately we knew that Khoon Yie works at the local school, and so we retraced our steps to the school that we had passed some ten minutes or so before, and lo and behold, there stood Khoon Yie. I warmed to her immediately. She’s a petite, elegant, well groomed, delightfully polite lady who displays an air that implies wisdom and education. She spoke slowly, softly, and gently. I found her spoken Thai very easy to understand.

Curious? Me? Surely not
Many of the schoolchildren gathered on the veranda of the school, and stared at me. They’d almost certainly seen a westerner before, but I suspect that having a westerner visit their school was an unusual event. Having lived in Thailand for a while now, I’ve become accustomed to being stared at in this way. I understand that I’m regarded as an object of some curiosity. I often rather enjoy being the centre of attention.

Skylab
However the object of my attention was Skylab, the school bus. I’ve taken a photograph of it for you. You can click on the photo to enlarge it.


As you can see, the front part of this vehicle is obviously a motorcycle, and the back part looks like a cross between a camping trailer and a fairground ride. This type of vehicle is common throughout Thailand and falls in to the general category of vehicles referred to as “sam lor” – literally “three wheels”. I wonder why they call them that…. However, Mr Wit who is a veritable mine of fascinating information informed me that young, cool, Thai dudes such as himself call this particular kind of three-wheeler a Skylab.

This Skylab was powered by a single cylinder 90cc motorcycle engine, perfectly adequate for transporting Thailand’s future workforce along challenging, unmade roads. However, some Skylabs sport a four pot, 400cc lump, and those babies can really fly. Hence the nickname, “Skylab”.

And Off We Went
We exchanged pleasantries with Khoon Yie for a few moments longer, and then set off on our journey back to Buriram, and subsequently Bangkok.

I hope that you’ve enjoyed today’s entry on this blog.
Please do pop back.
The next entry on this blog will be made soon.
Take care. Have a good day.

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Saturday, July 01, 2006

Most Serene Surin Province

Having shaved, showered, and shared a bowl of noodles with Her@Home, we three (Mr Wit, Her@Home, and me) embarked on our journey to the monastery pictured below. You can click on the photo to enlarge it.
The purpose of our visit to this particular monastery was not as you might expect to ordain me as a monk (I fear that my monastic credentials are woefully inadequate), but was in fact to visit a close family member of Her@Home who was ordained as a monk twelve months ago.

Getting There
Our journey from Surin City to the monastery initially took us along twenty five kilometres of well made, arterial roads, but then we turned left in to a tiny but most fascinating country lane. Despite its remote location there were houses at fifty to one hundred metre intervals on both sides of the lane for most of its length. Some of these houses were very grand and foreboding looking places, and others were tiny, decaying wooden shacks that clearly hadn’t seen a tin of creosote for far too long.

Several houses had buffaloes grazing in the gardens. Really. And it seemed that all of these houses were home to more chickens than Colonel Sanders could ever have dreamed of.

After five kilometres of navigating past buffaloes, cows, ducks, chickens, and dozing dogs, but astonishingly no other cars and a distinct lack of human personages, we arrived at the monastery.

The Monastery
The monastery has two floors. The upper floor is the monks’ sleeping quarters. There are six monks in residence at this monastery (4 monks, and 2 novices).

The ground floor houses the shrine room.

The monks’ washroom is a shed fifteen metres or so from the main building. It’s not featured in the picture.

The Shrine Room
The shrine room is a rectangular hall. It’s approximately eight metres wide and twenty metres long. As well as accommodating the Buddha images, a number of pictures depicting the many lives of the Buddha, and a number of other religious artefacts, it also serves as meditation room, sitting room, dining room, food preparation area, meeting hall, and office. The photo below was taken in the Shrine Room.

The Monastery Grounds
The monastery stands in a two hundred metre virtually square plot of land. This plot of land also houses a tiny school, a basketball and volleyball court, the monks’ washroom, and two rather dilapidated wooden shelters. A new pavilion building is under construction within the grounds.

The grounds are also home to a number of goats. One of them is featured in the first photograph on today’s entry. Incidentally, the monks told us that this particular goat is aggressive and attempts to butt them whenever they go near it. But Mr Wit befriended it in no time at all. Within moments he was patting it on the head and feeding it leaves that he had collected from a nearby banana tree. The goat was completely entranced by him, and frankly, couldn’t have been more docile. Animals like Mr Wit. I’ve noticed that the ladies are rather fond of him too.

Also present in the monastery grounds were a number of ducks and chickens, many of them with chicks. And a number of dogs seemed to come and go too. I don’t know whether these dogs live in the monastery, or whether they’re waifs and strays. Or perhaps they were just nosey neighbours. I really don’t know.

Thai Language and the Monastic Community
A Thai man who has been ordained as a monk is no longer referred to by name, not even by his family. He is always referred to as “Praa” which means “(the) monk”. His name is only ever used to identify him in a community of monks, and then his name will be preceded by “Praa”. For example, I used to know an English monk who practised at a large temple in Bangkok. He was referred to as “Praa John”. Monks below the age of twenty, although ordained, are referred to as novices (Thai word “Nen”).

In normal conversation the Thai word “khoon” is most commonly used for the pronoun “You”, but when speaking to a monk “tann” must always be used. “Tann” is much more formal and demonstrates great respect from the speaker.

Making Merit
This is a very important part of Thai Buddhist practice. It is referred to in Thai as “Tam Boon”. It is based on the firmly held belief that if a person leads a good and wholesome life, shows kindness and generosity towards others, and respects and adheres to the teachings of the Buddha, then he or she will be born in to better circumstances in his or her next life. Or, better still, will attain enlightenment, and will therefore never need to be born in to any mortal coil ever again.

One of the many ways that Thai people like to accrue merit is by offering food and gifts to the monks.

Her@Home does not need to accrue merit. She’s practically perfect in every way already, but nonetheless she marked our arrival at the monastery by presenting the monks, or more particularly the monastery, with gifts. These gifts included all the essentials of life i.e. toothpaste and toothbrushes, soap, washing powder, packets of dried noodles, and tins of fish. And she also arranged that we would return the following day and bring cooked food with us to give to the monks.

The Following Day
We returned to the monastery in the morning as arranged. We had already purchased ready-cooked food from roadside stalls during our journey to the monastery. Her@Home and her fellow Buddhists made final preparations to the food and served it to the monks. I hope that the photo below helps you to imagine the scene.

The monks responded by chanting what I think was a blessing for the laypeople present.

I watched the entire ceremony with interest but remained remote from it. I have no place in such rituals. My karmic account is already heavily overdrawn. Even so, I was very struck by the atmosphere of peace, and calm, and tolerance, and understanding that seemed to permeate not only through this ceremony but throughout the entire experience of visiting this monastery.

We’ll be going back there again in the future. That’s for sure.

I hope that you’ve enjoyed today’s entry on this blog.
Please do pop back.
The next entry on this blog will be made soon.
Take care. Have a good day.

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